Eek! Devil’s Lake Climbing Surprises!

Eek! Yikes! Interesting Finds Climbing

and Bouldering at Devil’s Lake.

One of the best things about hanging out at Devil’s Lake State Park is the interesting array of insects, frogs, toads, and snakes we come across while guiding. Not only are these “finds” on the trails, but often on the actual climbs themselves! Climbers can be walking to their destination or reach up for that bomber hold, only to be surprised by any number of things including timber rattlers, toads, and spiders.

Not to worry, these encounters are rare and mostly harmless!

The following is a list of the few my favorite things found while guiding:

  • Timber Rattler – See where we have found these at the lake.  Last year we had several sightings along the hiking trails to climbing locations!  With their loud rattler, though shy (thanks goodness!), you’ll hear them.
  • Frogs and Toads – The perimeter of the lake, the nearing ponds, and sometimes, in the cracks of climbs!
  • Walking Stick – Check the trees around the park.  Keep your eyes peeled, they can be tricky to spot since they look, well, like a stick.
  • Millipedes and Centipedes – These guys are all over Devil’s Lake State Park! Freaky at first, but not harmful. If seen on the trails, their favorite past-time is being saved and not stepped on.
  • wolf spiderWolf Spider – We see these guys on the side of the rocks.  Not often, luckily. They never fail to be a freaky sighting.

The Nature Center, located off the Devil’s Lake’s North Entrance offers a wealth of information and examples of wildlife at the lake, as well as a history of the lake and area. It’s well worth a visit. For information about hours visit their website.

Come out climb with us and let’s see what we can find!

Best Climbing Gear to Top Rope Devil’s Lake

We get A LOT of questions about what gear is best to start out when you want to start to build a climbing gear rack to Top Rope at Devil’s Lake.  Since much of our clientele intends on heading on out to our local crag, Devil’s Lake State Park, here is a list of our recommendations for the Best Climbing Gear to Top Rope Devil’s Lake. You’ll find that what you need depends on what you want to do, how much time are willing to devote to being creative (and safe, always #1!). If you have further questions, please email us at info@apexadventurealliance.com. Also check out our Anchors Course to learn more. 

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The All-Natural Rack

Tough to get by on, but with a little creativity, possible for many climbs at Devil’s Lake. This is also gear that you will just need in general to be able to have a successful set up.

  • Cord (static), I would go with 8mm minimum.  That will give you something that lasts and the ability to build your anchors to an appropriate strength.  Find it at Adventure Rock, REI, Fontana, etc. (20-40 foot pieces)
  • Or tubular webbing. (20-40 foot pieces)
  • Locking Carabiners (two per master point)
  • Several non-locking carabiners
  • A few double length slings (2-3)
  • A Climbing Rope
If all you have is some cord or webbing, PLEASE do not be one of “those people” that bends the rules in order to “make it work.”  Only use solid features as naturals.  There are over 5,000 routes at Devil’s Lake, so don’t compromise safety just because you don’t have the right gear.

The Passive Rack – A GREAT! starting point if you are on a strict budget.nuts

  • Standard Nuts (you can get away with Black Diamond’s Classic Stopper Set or you can go with the BD Pro Stopper Set)
  • Offset Nuts.  Work in lots of spots at the lake.  Also like to get stuck. (These are awesome at Devil’s Lake!)
  • Hexes. I like using these in both a passive and active way.  The big ones are great in lots of “thread through” spots at Devil’s Lake.
  • Tricams (Red, Pink at DL or two pinks!)
  • Nut tool (Definite necessity.  You’ll probably get pretty good at using this if you put something in the cold rock in the morning and it heats up during the day).

The Cam, A Lot Rack – Do almost anything with this rack

You’ll first need the “All Natural Rack” and then you can either combo with the Passive Rack or just go ahead and cover all of your bases and buy everything.  It is fun to be a gear snob. Plan on quick set ups at Devil’s Lake with cams (as long as you have equalization and master points knots under yours belt).

  • Black Diamond Camalots are great. Easy to place.  I use .5-3 the most, favoring the .75 and 1)
  • Black Diamond’s X4 are pretty awesome with a more flexible stem.
  • Other camming devices will work just fine. All are similar with some subtle differences.  I recommend Black Diamond since I have first-hand experience with using their product.
As always, we recommend tying yourself in at the top of any climb.  The Metolius PAS 22 is great.  Also very useful for sport route cleaning.  
 

 Best Climbing Gear to Top Rope Devil’s Lake.

Legend and Folklore of the Devil’s Lake Monster

"Plesiosaurus 3DB" by Creator:Dmitry Bogdanov - dmitrchel@mail.ru. Licensed under CC BY 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons - http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Plesiosaurus_3DB.jpg#/media/File:Plesiosaurus_3DB.jpg

“Plesiosaurus 3DB” by Dmitry Bogdanov – dmitrchel@mail.ru. Link

Once our clients are geared up for rock climbing, we hike to the crag. To pass the time, we share a bit about the history of the lake, rock, and answer questions.  A popular question is:  Why is it named Devil’s Lake?

The answer comes in many forms including the Legend and Folklore of the Devil’s Lake Monster passed down for years. The Nakota Sioux and Ho-Chunk tribes used Devil’s Lake and Devil’s Lake State Park area, as a gathering place for centuries. The Ho-Chunk named the lake Day-wa-kun-chunk (or “Sacred Lake”) and the Nakota called it Minne-wau-ken (”Bad Spirit” or “Mystery Lake”).

How did it come to have such a reputation?

Years ago, there were reports of octopus-like sea creatures in the lake and Hairy Hominids (Big Foot) on land.  My personal favorite story comes from the Nakota Sioux:

They claim that an expedition of young warriors and their leader were canoeing late at night.  The lake was blackened and the full moon reflected off the water. An octopus-like creature with tentacles ripped through the water and tipped over the canoes.  As the warriors screamed, others witnessed this horrible scene on the shore.  All were lost.

The Nakota also report seeing a huge, fish like creature.  The tribe described the large creature as having a long neck, small head and wide body.

To pay tribute to the creature, the Nakota held a festival every year. The tradition carries through to this day.  Animals are no longer sacrificed (as they once were) – instead, it’s more of a picnic and celebration.

It’s very possible that this creature existed, say researchers.  The Nakota description resembles the fresh water plesiosaur that found its way into the lake after the last Ice Age. Whatever the Devil’s Lake Monster is, or was, there haven’t been any confirmed sightings of the creature for some time!

If you would like to read more, here are some interesting reads and our references!

http://www.unknownexplorers.com/devilslakemonster.php

 

http://www.americanmonsters.com/site/2010/10/devils-lake-monsters-wisconsin-usa/

 

http://whoonew.com/2013/10/wisconsin-monsters/

 

Devil’s Lake Climbing Etiquette

IMG_1636We often see climbers at Devil’s Lake State Park from out of town. We love visiting with them and finding out more about where they are from, their local crag, and what brings them to our home crag.We also commonly exchange information on the area, including rock climbing etiquette.

Devil’s Lake State Park has over 2,000 top rope and traditional (trad) routes and over 2,000 Boulder problems.  The area is unique because there are no bolts for sport climbing. These circumstances make Devil’s Lake have some interesting and unique sets of etiquette. Apex Adventure Alliance adheres to the best climbing etiquette as possible. We work hard to positively impact the climbing areas as little as possible. We hope that you can too!

Don’t reserve a climbing or bouldering spot. Be willing to be flexible. Sleeping at a location to reserve it is not the best way to make friends.

Keep your group together. If you have a larger group, pick climbs that are near each other. It is more fun to rock climb and socialize together.

Set up top ropes properly. Don’t cross hiking paths. Have a good understanding of anchor setting or get more training. Your safety is worth it!

Don’t Hog. Sharing is fun. Sharing ropes at Devil’s Lake is common etiquette. Just make sure you check what is up top!

Yield to lead climbers, remember there are non-climbers that enjoy the park too.

Beware! Timber Rattler Sighted at Devils Lake!

TIMBER RATTLER (Crotalus Horridus)

timber rattlerBright and early last Thursday morning, four seasoned Apex guides were hiking up the CCC trail to set up a climbing site for a group of enthusiastic seventh graders from Roscoe Middle School. Low and behold… a three and a half foot timber rattler on the trail! The first guide and I stepped right over the snake without noticing it. Our group was split – with the two of us on one side and the others on the other side.

What to do????

After investigating, photographs and a lengthy discussion, our group decided to mark the trail with a hand-written notes and green static rope.

Timber rattlers are one of North America’s most venomous snake – recognizable by their stocky appearance, yellow or black coloration and brown and black cross-bands. Their heads are triangular and their scales are ridged, making it appear that they have rough skin. Their distinctive rattle is created by loose horny segments in the tail. When you hear the rattle, the snake is agitated. Let me tell you, we certainly heard it load and clear!

Timber rattlers are, in fact, shy. In fact, none of us have ever seen one at the park – and we have been climbing at Devil’s Lake for years. The snakes are active mid-April to mid-October and prefer deciduous forests in rugged terrain. In winter, they hole up in dens with other snakes. They survive on small mammals, birds, toads and garter snakes. Their fangs are long and can pierce hiking boots. The venom is potent. If you are bitten by a timber rattler, seek medical treatment immediately.

For a list of snakes at Devil’s Lake, check this out!