Spring Climbing Archives - Apex Adventure Alliance

Climbing Movement: Pulling a Roof

Posted on May 29, 2018 by Lynn Mallach

Climber begins to get their feet up

Want to learn better climbing techniques for out on the cliffs or at your local gym? Follow this 8 part series to explore helpful rock climbing movement tips and techniques, reasons for performing the climbing movement, and how to practice them for added rock climbing fun. We will even include recommended Devil’s Lake State Park climbs to try your new found skills on.

So we are getting into some dicey movement here. Gaining momentum on difficulty, but have no fear… everything I suggest can happen on easier grades for practice (and for the heck/ fun of it). Before you head out for climbing some roofs at Devil’s Lake, you might need to pick up some new things at REI, Adventure Rock, Target, whatever local retailer sells new undies (come to think of it, I don’t think Adventure Rock has those, but they have t-shirts if you sweat through yours or other sick climbing gear). What I’m getting to here is that climbing over a roof can certainly take some try hard. So pack up that much needed gear for success and try out these tips for success in climbing over a roof.

First, check out your climb before you get on the wall. This is never a bad idea… it even has a name, route reading. You want to try to figure out how you are going to make it over whatever obstacle it is, in this case… a roof. To describe a roof, it is a “thing” that juts out from the vertical wall, perpendicularly with the ground, that could sometimes protect you from rain (although unlikely at Devil’s Lake). You probably get the point, the name “Roof” sort of implies what you are probably picturing in your head.

So, you’ve got your climb, you see there is a roof, you’ve planned your attack, you have a fresh pair of undies (or maybe keep those for later), and you have your best grunts ready. Climb up to that thing and give it your all. Get your feet nice and high, almost so you seem to be parallel with the ground. Reach your hand around the roof and feel all over. Can you come up with a half-way decent hand hold? Ok, great! Grab onto that thing, walk your feet either sideways or up through holds you found in the roof (hopefully you “read” where those were at because you might not be able to see them), and then bring out your best beast mode sounds. Many a times, I have walked my feet up nice and high or have gotten a toe/ heel hook (blog to come on that movement). Hip flexibility is key here because the more you can contort and get a really high foot (Read more about The High Step) sometimes even putting it onto the same hold as your hand, the better. Finish up the climb, give a little fist pump at the top, and get lowered to get into those fresh drawers.

Suggested Rock Climbs at Devil’s Lake State Park that include a Roof: Roger’s Roof 5.8+ (Horse Rampart), Orgasm 5.8 (Bedroom Amphitheatre), Gargantua 5.10b (Old Sandstone), Double Overhang 5.4 (Rainy Wednesday Tower), Lost Face Overhangs I & II 5.8 (Lost Face)

Climbing Movement: The Chimney

Posted on April 12, 2018 by Lynn Mallach

Want to learn better climbing techniques for out on the cliffs or at your local gym? Follow this 8 part series to explore helpful rock climbing movement tips and techniques, reasons for performing the climbing movement, and how to practice them for added rock climbing fun. Try our recommended Devil’s Lake State Park routes, which will all contain the discussed movement.

Picture this… a big dude squeezing his big body up and down a tight fireplace chimney to leave you presents. You can check it out yourself by viewing movies such as “The Santa Clause” featuring Tim Allen. Personally, I’ve seen the movies, I’ve seen the dude (not in person), and I’m not totally sure that I buy it.

The only thing that is really going to convince me is trying it out myself. Call me Kinesthetic and leave me cookies at the top. Anywho, when you are confronted with two walls and a space that is large enough for you to get your whole body inside, channel your inner Santa. Let me throw one other thing out here too folks, before we get into the nitty gritty of how-to… this climbing movement doesn’t look pretty.

So here is what you should try. First, you need a Chimney. It should be a space where two walls are parallel with each other and your whole body can fit inside of it. Get your whole body in there. Squeeze a little if you have to, even suck it in if needed. If you can’t get your whole body in, that type of crack is called an off-width, a whole other beast for a whole other time. Next, slither your way up that thing. That rock ain’t gonna climb itself!

You can try your back against one wall with your feet against the other. You can also try one foot per wall and your back against the wall.

If the area is a little bigger, make yourself bigger too. Fill the space with as much as your rockin’ bod as possible and you’ll be on your way. You’ll probably get dirty, but what fun would life be if we didn’t get dirty once in a while.

Suggested Rock Climbs at Devil’s Lake State Park that include a Chimney: The Grotto 5.4 located in the Mouse’s Wall Area. The Chimney 5.4 located right between D’Arcy’s Wall and Pedestal Buttress. Fat Man’s Misery 5.6 Misery Rocks.

Devil’s Lake State Park Current Conditions

Posted on March 21, 2018 by Lynn Mallach

Current conditions of Devil’s Lake’s: still frozen over! Each cold snap we get freezes it up, while the warm spells seems to be wearing away at it relatively slowly. After last weekend’s 50 degree weather and upcoming warmer temperatures, we will see how much longer the continues to have a layer of ice.

While the lake continues to be frozen over with a slow thaw, I wouldn’t head out onto the ice to test the structural soundness. Nosiree! BUT, the current conditions for rock climbing are in pretty good shape. Sunny routes are warm and dry. Approaches are relatively good with some spots on and off trail that continue to have some wet/icey spots. I think we will get a pretty dry start to Spring climbing, with the Spring showers rolling in seasonally. The rock is cold in the mornings, but has been relatively warm after some sunshine.

We are looking forward to spending the warm days at Balanced Rock, which offers an easy approach and stays sunny all day. We might see some weeping (water runoff) from the walls since we haven’t had a truly proper thaw AND dry. Nothing a little chalk, a dirty sock, and some fancy movement can’t get past.

If you are headed out for some spring climbing, don’t forget your helmet and to be extra careful. When rock climbing, rock fall can always occur. At Devil’s Lake, we specifically see it after the Winter when lots of freezing and thawing occur. There are always those pesky sticks, pine needles, and leaves left over from the fall too. As always, be careful, have fun! And if you are starting to plan your Spring or Summer, our calendar and packages are now available!

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Devil’s Lake State Park Current Conditions

A Day Out Climbing with Apex

Posted on August 13, 2015 by Lynn Mallach

By Guest Blogger: Marcie Waters

This summer, my friend Marissa and I decided to try out rock climbing with an Open Group Climb with Apex. At first, it seemed we were doomed to bad luck, as it began raining as soon as we arrived to the parking lot meeting point at Devil’s Lake State Park. We met our guide for the day, Jill, who distributed gear and made sure it fit us correctly, and the rest of our group, who included a family of rock climbing enthusiasts. We sat in our cars for a bit, waiting the rain out, until we decided it was clear enough to go climbing.

We went on a short but steep hike up to the bluffs where Jill had laid out four climbing routes for us to try. On our way up, she explained some background info about the unique nature at Devil’s Lake. When we arrived at the bluffs, Jill made sure we had our gear on properly, taught us how to tie into the ropes, and explained how to belay. Then we were off!

The rock had dried out quickly and didn’t pose a problem for climbing. Marissa climbed first, and I belayed her; then we switched off. Climbing was much harder than I thought it would be, and I had not realized how much of climbing is mental. This challenge just made it even more fun and rewarding when I climbed higher and higher. The day was spent switching between different routes and between climbing and belaying. Belaying might not sound as fun as climbing, but I did enjoy watching Marissa climb, helping her find holds in the rocks that she couldn’t see from her vantage point, and cheering her on. With Jill providing helpful tips and encouragement the whole time, climbing was really a group activity.

We ended the day by following Jill up to the top of the bluffs to learn about how the ropes had been set up for the climb and how to take them down before heading down towards the parking lot. Marissa and I enjoyed our first climbing experience and can’t imagine a better place to have done it than at Devil’s Lake with Apex! 11535909_10153455921741942_4761020965844571284_n

A DAY OUT CLIMBING WITH APEX

Reflections of a Guide

Posted on July 20, 2015 by Lynn Mallach

Camping and climbing at Devil’s Lake State Park is awesome. Getting to share that with others is also great. Know what is even better? Pantry Rock Climbing

Getting to share it with others for FOUR days. Last week I got the privilege of working with a youth group from near my home town. We camped, we climbed, we swam, we explored a river, we jumped into the water, and best of all, we all learned about each other and the world around us. Taking this time to reflect and build relationships is truly what being a guide is all about.

I have worked at other camps and regardless of location, getting to work with kids and adults alike, you see a changes in them after spending time in the wilderness. Without some of the stimulations we see in every day life, people are different. I see calm, relaxed, open, excited, and more. I not only see it in others, but I see it in myself too.

When we take away those stimulations, we also create space for relationships to thrive in ways that those stimulations can push away. Not once throughout the whole four days was someone busy on their phone instead of giving someone their full attention. With our attention turned to each other and ourselves, we start to listen better, we start to interact better, and we make room for more. More of whatever it is that we need.

So as I reflect on my time in the wilderness and each day I am allowed to spend time outside, I start to see myself more fully. I am better at achieving results when challenged. I have better, deeper, more solid relationships. And best of all, I am more of the best parts of me.

If you have time, check out what the world around us does to you.

– Jill Griffis