Top 5 Natural Attractions at Devil’s Lake

Posted on June 18, 2015 by Lynn Mallach

There are many amazing sites to see at Devil’s Lake. Lynn and I have done extensive exploring and for the past five seasons, I have very much enjoyed much of “The Lake.” Here is my top 5 list of my favorite natural attractions at Devil’s Lake State Park.

5. A fish out of water.

Grab your license (for purchase at most gas stations in Wisconsin), a tackle box, and your pole. Fishing is a great relaxing way to enjoy the lake. If you are lucky, you will land a big one and have a nice catch for dinner.

4. The south beach on a week day.

Stop at the lake for less crowds and a beautiful serene beach on a week day. Evenings are also prime time to enjoy the quietness the lake has to offer. Of course, any time is the right time to swim, so jump in and splash around. Note that this activity is especially awesome after a day of climbing during the Summer!

3. Balanced Rock Trail meets East Bluff Trail.

Take the Balanced Rock Trail up the bluffs. Check out Balanced Rock on your way up, a naturally occurring rock formation. Keep hiking until you reach Devil’s Doorway, also a natural rock formation. Both have great views and are iconic to Devil’s Lake.

2. A 360 degree view from the middle of the lake.

Take to a boat or raft to gain access to the middle of Devil’s Lake. This spot will not disappoint one bit. You can get a more full view of the extravagance of Devil’s Lake State Park. Can you name the different climbing areas?

1. The view from the top!

Of course, this list can’t be complete without noting that when you reach the top of a climb, there are wonderful, unique views. No matter where you climb at Devil’s Lake, when you reach the top, look behind you. Don’t miss seeing Lake Wisconsin and the Wisconsin River from the CCC and Baraboo from the middle of the West Bluff.

Enjoy all these wonders of nature close to home. And you thought you needed to head westward… let me prove you wrong : )

– Jill

Eek! Devil’s Lake Climbing Surprises!

Posted on May 15, 2015 by Lynn Mallach

Eek! Yikes! Interesting Finds Climbing

and Bouldering at Devil’s Lake.

One of the best things about hanging out at Devil’s Lake State Park is the interesting array of insects, frogs, toads, and snakes we come across while guiding. Not only are these “finds” on the trails, but often on the actual climbs themselves! Climbers can be walking to their destination or reach up for that bomber hold, only to be surprised by any number of things including timber rattlers, toads, and spiders.

Not to worry, these encounters are rare and mostly harmless!

The following is a list of the few my favorite things found while guiding:

Timber Rattler – See where we have found these at the lake. Last year we had several sightings along the hiking trails to climbing locations! With their loud rattler, though shy (thanks goodness!), you’ll hear them.
Frogs and Toads – The perimeter of the lake, the nearing ponds, and sometimes, in the cracks of climbs!
Walking Stick – Check the trees around the park. Keep your eyes peeled, they can be tricky to spot since they look, well, like a stick.
Millipedes and Centipedes – These guys are all over Devil’s Lake State Park! Freaky at first, but not harmful. If seen on the trails, their favorite past-time is being saved and not stepped on.
Wolf Spider – We see these guys on the side of the rocks. Not often, luckily. They never fail to be a freaky sighting.

The Nature Center, located off the Devil’s Lake’s North Entrance offers a wealth of information and examples of wildlife at the lake, as well as a history of the lake and area. It’s well worth a visit. For information about hours visit their website.

Come out climb with us and let’s see what we can find!

Best Climbing Gear to Top Rope Devil’s Lake

Posted on April 17, 2015 by Lynn Mallach

We get A LOT of questions about what gear is best to start out when you want to start to build a climbing gear rack to Top Rope at Devil’s Lake. Since much of our clientele intends on heading on out to our local crag, Devil’s Lake State Park, here is a list of our recommendations for the Best Climbing Gear to Top Rope Devil’s Lake. You’ll find that what you need depends on what you want to do, how much time are willing to devote to being creative (and safe, always #1!). If you have further questions, please email us at info@apexadventurealliance.com. Also check out our Anchors Course to learn more.

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The All-Natural Rack

Tough to get by on, but with a little creativity, possible for many climbs at Devil’s Lake. This is also gear that you will just need in general to be able to have a successful set up.

Cord (static), I would go with 8mm minimum. That will give you something that lasts and the ability to build your anchors to an appropriate strength. Find it at Adventure Rock, REI, Fontana, etc. (20-40 foot pieces)
Or tubular webbing. (20-40 foot pieces)
Locking Carabiners (two per master point)
Several non-locking carabiners
A few double length slings (2-3)
A Climbing Rope

If all you have is some cord or webbing, PLEASE do not be one of “those people” that bends the rules in order to “make it work.” Only use solid features as naturals. There are over 5,000 routes at Devil’s Lake, so don’t compromise safety just because you don’t have the right gear.

The Passive Rack – A GREAT! starting point if you are on a strict budget.

Standard Nuts (you can get away with Black Diamond’s Classic Stopper Set or you can go with the BD Pro Stopper Set)
Offset Nuts. Work in lots of spots at the lake. Also like to get stuck. (These are awesome at Devil’s Lake!)
Hexes. I like using these in both a passive and active way. The big ones are great in lots of “thread through” spots at Devil’s Lake.
Tricams (Red, Pink at DL or two pinks!)
Nut tool (Definite necessity. You’ll probably get pretty good at using this if you put something in the cold rock in the morning and it heats up during the day).

The Cam, A Lot Rack – Do almost anything with this rack

You’ll first need the “All Natural Rack” and then you can either combo with the Passive Rack or just go ahead and cover all of your bases and buy everything. It is fun to be a gear snob. Plan on quick set ups at Devil’s Lake with cams (as long as you have equalization and master points knots under yours belt).

Black Diamond Camalots are great. Easy to place. I use .5-3 the most, favoring the .75 and 1)
Black Diamond’s X4 are pretty awesome with a more flexible stem.
Other camming devices will work just fine. All are similar with some subtle differences. I recommend Black Diamond since I have first-hand experience with using their product.

As always, we recommend tying yourself in at the top of any climb. The Metolius PAS 22 is great. Also very useful for sport route cleaning.

Best Climbing Gear to Top Rope Devil’s Lake.

Legend and Folklore of the Devil’s Lake Monster

Posted on March 17, 2015 by Lynn Mallach

"Plesiosaurus 3DB" by Creator:Dmitry Bogdanov - dmitrchel@mail.ru. Licensed under CC BY 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons - http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Plesiosaurus_3DB.jpg#/media/File:Plesiosaurus_3DB.jpg

“Plesiosaurus 3DB” by Dmitry Bogdanov – dmitrchel@mail.ru. Link

Once our clients are geared up for rock climbing, we hike to the crag. To pass the time, we share a bit about the history of the lake, rock, and answer questions. A popular question is: Why is it named Devil’s Lake?

The answer comes in many forms including the Legend and Folklore of the Devil’s Lake Monster passed down for years. The Nakota Sioux and Ho-Chunk tribes used Devil’s Lake and Devil’s Lake State Park area, as a gathering place for centuries. The Ho-Chunk named the lake Day-wa-kun-chunk (or “Sacred Lake”) and the Nakota called it Minne-wau-ken (”Bad Spirit” or “Mystery Lake”).

How did it come to have such a reputation?

Years ago, there were reports of octopus-like sea creatures in the lake and Hairy Hominids (Big Foot) on land. My personal favorite story comes from the Nakota Sioux:

They claim that an expedition of young warriors and their leader were canoeing late at night. The lake was blackened and the full moon reflected off the water. An octopus-like creature with tentacles ripped through the water and tipped over the canoes. As the warriors screamed, others witnessed this horrible scene on the shore. All were lost.

The Nakota also report seeing a huge, fish like creature. The tribe described the large creature as having a long neck, small head and wide body.

To pay tribute to the creature, the Nakota held a festival every year. The tradition carries through to this day. Animals are no longer sacrificed (as they once were) – instead, it’s more of a picnic and celebration.

It’s very possible that this creature existed, say researchers. The Nakota description resembles the fresh water plesiosaur that found its way into the lake after the last Ice Age. Whatever the Devil’s Lake Monster is, or was, there haven’t been any confirmed sightings of the creature for some time!

If you would like to read more, here are some interesting reads and our references!

http://www.unknownexplorers.com/devilslakemonster.php

http://www.americanmonsters.com/site/2010/10/devils-lake-monsters-wisconsin-usa/

http://whoonew.com/2013/10/wisconsin-monsters/

Screaming Barfies

Posted on October 29, 2014 by Lynn Mallach

Despite these 70 degree October days, we are in high-grip season. 535320_633143528714_957226645_n Those calloused pads get so numb we can’t tell if the rock is tearing them apart. Our digits get so numb that “sharp holds” don’t exist anymore. Our hands get so numb that the skin literally tears right off and we don’t notice until blood runs down our hand. And cuticles, forget those…

Our hands will be so numb, that when they warm up again, we won’t know if we should scream or barf. And ladies and gentlemen, that is the definition of “Screaming Barfies.”

For the full experience, why not make it a story of your own and come out to climb this fall or ice climb this winter. : )