Climbing Movement: Pulling a Roof

roof climbing

Climber begins to get their feet up

Want to learn better climbing techniques for out on the cliffs or at your local gym? Follow this 8 part series to explore helpful rock climbing movement tips and techniques, reasons for performing the climbing movement, and how to practice them for added rock climbing fun.  We will even include recommended Devil’s Lake State Park climbs to try your new found skills on.

So we are getting into some dicey movement here. Gaining momentum on difficulty, but have no fear… everything I suggest can happen on easier grades for practice (and for the heck/ fun of it). Before you head out for climbing some roofs at Devil’s Lake, you might need to pick up some new things at REI, Adventure Rock, Target, whatever local retailer sells new undies (come to think of it, I don’t think Adventure Rock has those, but they have t-shirts if you sweat through yours or other sick climbing gear). What I’m getting to here is that climbing over a roof can certainly take some try hard. So pack up that much needed gear for success and try out these tips for success in climbing over a roof.

First, check out your climb before you get on the wall. This is never a bad idea… it even has a name, route reading. You want to try to figure out how you are going to make it over whatever obstacle it is, in this case… a roof. To describe a roof, it is a “thing” that juts out from the vertical wall, perpendicularly with the ground, that could sometimes protect you from rain (although unlikely at Devil’s Lake). You probably get the point, the name “Roof” sort of implies what you are probably picturing in your head.

Quartzite with SandstoneSo, you’ve got your climb, you see there is a roof, you’ve planned your attack, you have a fresh pair of undies (or maybe keep those for later), and you have your best grunts ready. Climb up to that thing and give it your all. Get your feet nice and high, almost so you seem to be parallel with the ground. Reach your hand around the roof and feel all over. Can you come up with a half-way decent hand hold? Ok, great! Grab onto that thing, walk your feet either sideways or up through holds you found in the roof (hopefully you “read” where those were at because you might not be able to see them), and then bring out your best beast mode sounds. Many a times, I have walked my feet up nice and high or have gotten a toe/ heel hook (blog to come on that movement). Hip flexibility is key here because the more you can contort and get a really high foot (Read more about The High Step) sometimes even putting it onto the same hold as your hand, the better. Finish up the climb, give a little fist pump at the top, and get lowered to get into those fresh drawers.

Suggested Rock Climbs at Devil’s Lake State Park that include a Roof: Roger’s Roof 5.8+ (Horse Rampart), Orgasm 5.8 (Bedroom Amphitheatre), Gargantua 5.10b (Old Sandstone), Double Overhang 5.4 (Rainy Wednesday Tower), Lost Face Overhangs I & II 5.8 (Lost Face)

Climbing Movement: The High Step

Want to learn better climbing techniques for out on the cliffs or at your local gym? Follow this 8 part series to explore helpful rock climbing movement tips and techniques, reasons for performing the climbing movement, and how to practice them for added rock climbing fun.  We will even include recommended Devil’s Lake State Park climbs to try your new found skills on.

High steppingYou’ve heard of the two-step. But have you heard of the high step? Pretty simple in theory and tougher if you don’t have a lot of flexibility. A high step is precisely just that, stepping high onto a hold/ foot chip. The more you can work on your flexibility, the more foot chips you can reach, the better you can climb.

After having surgery on my right hip a few years ago, it has taken some time to get back in the high stepping game. I’ve created some work-arounds **see grabbing your foot with your hand and lifting/forcing it onto high foot chip/ ledge.** You too can use this patented technique (can you patent a technique?!) if you need or you can follow these tips.

Keep working on your hip flexibility, spot those high foot holds, and working on one-legged squats doesn’t hurt (this has been key in my rehab!).  Get that foot up onto a hold, pebble, shelf, whatever will take it.  Now that your foot is a little closer to heaven, you have to get your weight over the foot as best you can.  Some people refer to this as “rocking on” to your foot.  Your hip and foot should be close to being in line.  Next, push down on that thing, say a prayer, and go for it.

Sometimes, I use a “mantle” to assist me (press down with a hand, like you are getting out of a swimming pool). Or if that movement is unavailable, your other foot can do this sloppy, semi-smear hop, ugly, no-name-move-because-no-one-wants-to-admit-they-did-it, move.  There you have it people, now go out and try and don’t be afraid to get a little ugly if you need to.  Just remember climbing is a weird, strange, funny thing we do, so no need to take it too seriously.

 Recommended Devil’s Lake Climbs: You can do this move on really any climb (I might be putting my high-step in my mouth by saying **any**). Try it out on Mammalary Magic 5.10a (Old Sandstone), Zig-Zag 5.6 (D’Arcy’s Buttress), Birch Tree Crack 5.8 (Pedestal Buttress), Pantry Corner 5.4 (The Pantry).

high step!

Adventure Rock Opening in June

20160525_104409 (1)You’ve probably heard by now that Adventure Rock is opening their second climbing gym in the heart of Milwaukee. We’ve got some insider details about the long-awaited space.

Measuring in at 43 feet at its tallest the space features ample climbing with uniquely featured walls that are a work of
art. The all-inclusive pro-shop offers everything down to a micro-nut. They will have a workout area for off-the-wall training and also a separate party space for birthdays and special events. Of course, they have all of the upgraded amenities such as large locker rooms and showers. Best of all, the space is amazingly bright, well thought out, and of course, has that friendly AdRock feel.  Craig Burzynski, General Manager states “150 routes, 210 boulder problems, 4 cracks, and 1 really good time!”IMG_0458

Adventure Rock JuneJoin them in celebrating and get excited. Here are some of the features and events surrounding the opening.IMG_0459
June 13-17 Soft Opening for Members Only
June 18th Grand Opening for All

Win awesome prizes (like the gift certificates we are giving away for outdoor climbing) and have some fun.

They are currently offering a pre-opening membership sale. They have all of the details here.  Also a perk is that their membership will work at both locations for no additional charge.

Adventure Rock always does a spectacular job in everything indoor climbing related and the new gym is nothing different.

 

Adventure Rock June

Adventure Rock Bouldering Wall

Adventure Rock, Opening June 2016!